113g speck or bacon, cut into ⅓-inch cubes

7 large egg yolks

1 large egg

500g rigatoni

cooking salt

½ cup finely grated Pecorino or Parmesan, plus more for garnish

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper (or ¾ teaspoon freshly ground green peppercorns plus ¾ teaspoon freshly ground pink peppercorns plus ½ teaspoon freshly ground white peppercorns), plus more

Cook speck in a large skillet over medium-low heat, stirring frequently, until fat renders but speck is not browned, about 5 minutes. Pour into a fine-mesh sieve set over a small bowl; reserve drippings. Transfer speck to a large bowl and let cool slightly.

Add egg yolks and egg to bowl; whisk to blend.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain, reserving ½ cup pasta cooking liquid.

Immediately add rigatoni, 2 Tbsp. pasta cooking liquid, and 1 tsp. speck drippings to egg mixture; toss to coat. Working in 3 batches, gradually add ½ cup Pecorino, stirring and tossing to melt between batches. Add 2 tsp. black pepper; toss until sauce thickens, adding more pasta water by tablespoonfuls if needed. Season with salt and pepper.

Divide among bowls. Garnish with Pecorino or Parmesan.